The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts Gear Review – A brilliant range of offset nuts to add to your Trad climbing rack.
Price: £59.99 each, but available for less in the UK.
Pros: Work where standard nuts or cams just don’t, useful in flared cracks, secondary axis taper good for more traditional placements, works great in more textured rock
Cons: Harder for your second to clean, less ideal in more parallel-sided cracks, expensive, no smaller sizes in this line
DMM Alloy Offset Nuts Description
The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are untouched by rival protection types because of their overall versatility and how bomber they are in placements where other types won’t seat effectively. These Alloy Offsets are designed to fit into pin scars and flaring cracks, and they are by far our favorite for these types of placements. The body of the nut seems to have angles on every side and direction with the main sides indented and weight lightening holes through the other sides. The wires are substantial and are recessed into the top of the nut with a plastic cover over the swage.
Key Updates: –
- Work great in pin scars, flares, or other spots where cams don’t work
- Recessed wires on the top help them fit in tight spots
- Works well along secondary axes for more versatility
- One of the better options for textured or large-grained rock
- Harder to clean than traditionally tapered nuts
- Don’t work as well in more parallel-sided cracks
DMM Alloy Offset Nuts Specifications
- Weight 27g to 56g depending on size.
- The five offsets cover placements from 12.0mm – 30.0mm.
- Certification – EN 12270:2013.
The Jurassic Verdict
Jurassic think that DMM Alloy Offsets are some of the best specialist nut devices available on the market. They come in five sizes, ranging from 12.0mm offset to a 30.0mm offset. Which is great but DMM could really do with adding more smaller sizes to the range. In use they consistently provide solid placements where standard nuts or cams won’t. They seem to have a perfect offset shape and with the side indents seem to place in smooth and rough textured rocks. They seat so well for the leader that the downside for the second is getting them out again!
The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts are a fantastic addition to an any Trad climber’s gear rack!