Alex Megos Upgrade U 8C Frankenjura FA

Enjoy the video of Alex Megos on the first ascent of the boulder “Upgrade U” in the Frankenjura. Alex says; ‘This project was found around 20 years ago and various climbers in the Frankenjura have attempted it. I got the tip to try this from Mawi and once I found it, it took me around 10 days to do it, including a lot of beta changes up until the last day. Doing it didn’t feel too bad, after a tiny but very significant change in beta. I still think though that 8C is an appropriate grade for it and I believe its the hardest boulder in the Frankenjura at the moment. And yes, it is named after the Beyoncé song.’

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Alex Megos has not been outside of Germany during lockdown and has spent his time exploring his home climbing. Recently Alex has been climbing routes in the area of Allgäu. These routes vary from vertical/technical to steep/powerful. His ticklist for the 5 days that he spent at Allgäu was;

– X-Hale (9a)
– Iron Dome (9a)
– Kreuzigung (8c+/9a)
– Walk of Life (8c/+)
– Bionic Commando (8c/+)
– Progression (8c)
– Out Right (8c)
– Weise bringens nicht (8b)
– Zoe (8b)
– Pro Touch (8a+/b)

Alex says about some of these routes – ‘I think X-Hale suited me very well, therefore it didn’t feel like 9a+ to me. On Iron Dome I broke off a little spike on the crux hold so it felt very solid for 9a.’