Black Diamond ATC-XP Gear Review

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The Black Diamond ATC-XP, a long standing popular choice with Trad, Sports and Gym climbers a like.

Gear Review - Black Diamond ATC-XP

Price:  £18 but available for less in the UK

Pros: Smooth rope handling, light, cost effective works on ropes down to 7.7mm, takes up to 2 ropes

Cons: Experienced belayer who is well taught

Manufacturer:   Black Diamond

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Black Diamond ATC-XP Description

  • Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter.
    • High-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode
    • Machined windows through device for weight savings
    • Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes
    • Versatile design accepts ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
    • Available for order by individual colour

Black Diamond ATC-XP Specifications

  • Weight: 64 g
  • Rope compatibility: 9mm to 11 mm single rope, 7.7mm to 11mm double ropes 8mm to 11mm half ropes
  • Material(s): aluminum body
  • Certification(s): UIAA 11-2771

The Jurassic Verdict

The Black Diamond ATC-XP is our staffs favourite manual belay device. The ATC-XP is designed in the classic tube shape but with a pair of toothed grooves on one side for greater friction. According to Black Diamond, these grooves offer three times more stopping power than the smooth-sided devices. We preferred the ATC-XP over similar belay devices because it is more durable and required less hand strength to lock off a resting climber. Rope moves through the device easily yet when braking the “teeth” give just a bit of extra tension. With the two rope grooves you may use double climbing ropes and make two-strand abseils. At only 64g, you can throw it in your bag and forget about it, until you need it!

Would you like to progress further with our help? Then why not Book Some Coaching

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