The Black Diamond ATC-XP, a long standing popular choice with Trad, Sports and Gym climbers a like.
Price: £18 but available for less in the UK
Pros: Smooth rope handling, light, cost effective works on ropes down to 7.7mm, takes up to 2 ropes
Cons: Experienced belayer who is well taught
Manufacturer: Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC-XP Description
- Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter.
- High-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode
- Machined windows through device for weight savings
- Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes
- Versatile design accepts ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
- Available for order by individual colour
Black Diamond ATC-XP Specifications
- Weight: 64 g
- Rope compatibility: 9mm to 11 mm single rope, 7.7mm to 11mm double ropes 8mm to 11mm half ropes
- Material(s): aluminum body
- Certification(s): UIAA 11-2771
The Jurassic Verdict
The Black Diamond ATC-XP is our staffs favourite manual belay device. The ATC-XP is designed in the classic tube shape but with a pair of toothed grooves on one side for greater friction. According to Black Diamond, these grooves offer three times more stopping power than the smooth-sided devices. We preferred the ATC-XP over similar belay devices because it is more durable and required less hand strength to lock off a resting climber. Rope moves through the device easily yet when braking the “teeth” give just a bit of extra tension. With the two rope grooves you may use double climbing ropes and make two-strand abseils. At only 64g, you can throw it in your bag and forget about it, until you need it!
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